On day 5 of my trip, I bowed down to a bowl of creamy overnight oats from Hermanas Arce for breakfast. Here, you can enjoy surprising combinations like white peach with sumac, feta, and mint; beets with chewy farro; and a watermelon and tomato gazpacho that I’d like to carry around in a flask. Sisters Elena and Ana Martínez Arce blend their Madrid heritage with international trends, and Elena can be found behind the bar, smiling as plates some of the best chocolate chip cookies I’ve ever had.