You can’t help but be immediately wooed by the old-school elegance of this bistro above The Three Compasses in Farringdon. Light pours into the loft-like space during the day, lanterns glow at night, and chalkboard menus lean against the wall like Gallic butter-worshipping scriptures. There’s a confidence to Bouchon Racine that you can taste in every impeccable chip dunked into your rabbit’s mustard sauce and every spoonful of luscious crème caramel. But it’s also felt in other ways too.