Think of Mexico and many of us think of the over-developed mega-resorts — which makes a place like Las Mañanitas such a welcome surprise, and such a well-kept secret. In fact it’s the restaurant, believe it or not, that gets most of the attention; but these 29 rooms are something special as well, a break from the tropical kitsch we’ve come to expect, a surprisingly elegant place. Cuernavaca, of course, is quite literally about as far as you can get from the seaside tourist traps; this historic town lies well inland, around an hour from Mexico City, and while the sand and surf are nowhere to be found, it’s a city of culture, with a number of archaeological sites and beautiful old haciendas, as well as a location conveniently close to the ancient village of Tepoztlán and the wide open spaces of its surrounding national park. Fitting, then, that Las Mañanitas specializes in the quiet life — its twenty-one rooms and suites surround gorgeous central gardens, each room with its own private terrace or patio. Flamingos stand around a Japanese pond, or amidst sculpture gardens, as guests lounge by the swimming pool. The décor may not be everyone’s cup of tea, with its slightly formal and colonial look, but what the rooms may lack in visual impact the make up for in charm and comfort. The restaurant is justifiably famous, serving Continental cuisine alongside Mexican specialties, all on the terraces overlooking the gardens. It’s something of an open secret that the big resorts are a bit weak in this area; one more reason to gloat as you breathe in the crisp mile-high air. How to get there: Las Mananitas is approximately a 1½-hour drive from Mexico City–Benito Juárez International Airport.