You’d be forgiven for thinking Mortadella Head is a pizza spot for undiscerning college kids: It’s located on College Avenue between Tufts and Lesley, and it sells pizza by the slice. It also has exactly three tables, the music is erratic (we were treated to a medley of Britney Spears, Bad Bunny, and Jewel), and most people wear backpacks. But this is arguably all part of its charm: Mortadella Head has no pretenses—just good pizza. Specifically, Roman-style slices. Square, chewy, and crispy, but a little heartier than the pizza al taglio you’ll find in the Eternal City. Mortadella Head’s also playful with the toppings, which range from classic to newfangled. We dig the Mamaluke, a pie loaded with a happy marriage of crushed meatballs and dollops of ricotta. The Shredder, with pepperoni, sausage, pickled jalapenos, and a squiggle of Calabrian chili aioli, is also great. If you’re craving round pizza a la New York, they nail that, too: a thin layer of fresh, tomato-forward sauce, a speckled layer of cheese, and a thin crust that holds up without being too chewy. Grab a pie to-go, or, if you’re feeling nostalgic for your college days, snag a table and enjoy your pizza on a red and white checkered tablecloth, a shaker of red pepper flakes within reach. And if you’re not in the mood for a slice, they’ve got subs, too.