There aren’t many chances for genuine respite in the brick and steel end-times bunker that is Battersea Power Station. But Bao, with its warm wooden floors, gently glowing orange lamps, and families finding peace over Taiwanese fried chicken nuggets, is one of them. Come with a gaggle of small people who’ve fallen out in the Lego store and need a pillowy, sweet bao stuffed with tender pork to put things right. Or pitch up at the pretty 1940s-inspired counter if you’re shopping alone and have hit sensory overload. The beef noodle soup, slick with spiced beef butter, is a good way to reset frazzled systems. But the best things on the menu here remain the doughy, comforting, handheld buns.