As one of the city’s most iconic dishes, you have an equally high chance of running into a tavern-style pizza as you do a Chicago flag tattoo. Some pizzerias have been serving these square-cut slices for over 80 years, while a batch of new spots has added personal twists like sourdough crust and longanisa. Enter Pizz’Amici, a newcomer in West Town. It’s old-school when it comes to its toppings and dough, but raises the bar for the tavern-style that came before it. Starting with the crust—it’s impressively thin and crackery, with a structural integrity that should get shout-outs in PBS specials about Chicago architecture. And the bottom of each pie is a dalmatian-spotted, charred beauty. The smoky flavor complements the slightly sweet tomato sauce and cheese that oozes to the edge. It’s the perfect canvas for whatever toppings you decide to throw onto your build-your-own pie (the fennel-forward sausage is particularly great). Pizz’Amici’s checkered floor space mashes “Leave the gun, take the cannoli” energy with the new-school hip-hop of Kendrick and Tyler. A portrait of the owner’s uncle—mid-cigarette puff—watches over the dining room. Paintings like this, along with old family photos and vintage art, add to Pizz’Amici’s personality. But one piece particularly speaks to us—a poster for the 1964 film Yesterday, Today, And Tomorrow. We haven’t seen the movie, but it does sum up how often we wish we were eating here.