If you only know one thing about San Tung, it’s that they make some of the best wings in the city. These things have a way of burrowing into your subconscious until you wake up in a cold sweat inexplicably craving something twice-fried, spicy, and sweet. There's always a daily mob waiting to order them, and you should do the same. But the Inner Sunset spot’s huge lineup of dumplings, and noodles deserves some love, too. Dining here requires some patience—San Tung is walk-in only and no one will be deterred by the waitlist or the Sunset fog, but most of the time names are called quickly thanks to a communal table set-up. So if you're already taking time to have the San Tung experience, you may as well order the menu's other highlights: wonton noodle soup with a richness offset by gingery pork filling, beef with oyster sauce slicked in a savory dressing that clings to every grain of rice on your plate, and chewy noodles with just enough heat to make a single tear form after each bite. We regularly send city first-timers for San Tung's hard hitters, even if the rest of the menu doesn’t necessarily outshine what's offered SF's other great Chinese spots. For the especially antsy, your best bet is to cancel any afternoon meetings and come here for lunch when the crowds are at their smallest (and the dining room is at its quietest). That way, you can also take advantage of San Tung's lunch special, which comes with rice, an entree, and soup. But if you ask us, it's probably wisest just to set up a recurring calendar event for sog-defying poultry from here on out.
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