Portland isn’t exactly a steakhouse sort of town, yet Ringside, which has been on the edge of Northwest for over 80 years, strikes a balance between baller and old-school kitsch in a way that appeals to special occasion diners of all stripes. It’s not cool, and it doesn’t need to be. You can skip the lobster mashed potatoes, but there’s no ignoring the perfectly fried onion rings blessed by James Beard himself. If you’re going to go big, start with the Dungeness crab cocktail, followed by the 34-ounce bone-in aged ribeye for two. Smaller pockets are accommodated on Mondays when Ringside offers a three-course prime rib dinner for $57.