Pick Ellina, a 20-year institution, for its traditional Southern Italian food, its deep wine list, and a low-lit dining room that always feels like a private wine cellar. Housemade pastas anchor the menu, with standouts like the lamb ragù lasagna layered with scamorza and béchamel, or black pepper fettuccini finished with pancetta, a poached egg, and parmigiano cream. Starters range from braised artichokes to burrata with prosciutto to French onion soup that’s unapologetically rich.