Early June’s rotating kitchen hosts guest chefs from all over the world who showcase flavors from the Amalfi Coast, Seoul, and Chicago, to name a few. The exceptional selection of natural wines is the constant. This spot off the Canal Saint-Martin is a minimalist’s dream with white walls and long wooden tables, and it’s small, so you’ll definitely overhear your neighbor’s conversations while you linger over trout ceviche, stuffed gnocchi, or a seared duck breast. Arrive right at 6pm if your party is less than four, or be prepared to wait for a table (they take online reservations for large groups).