“First we eat, then we do everything else,” said M.F.K. Fisher, the food writer who serves as both the inspiration and namesake for this local darling. Thanks to large windows, whitewashed brick walls and silver-and-white tilework, the subterranean space manages to evoke a breezy oasis. Organized from small to large plates, the thoughtfully composed, Iberian-inspired menu follows suit. Simple, flavorful dishes, like warm boquerónes, croquettes with Montamoré cheese, or crostini with butter, lemon, and a single anchovy are tempting before main dishes like seared scallops with persimmon gazpacho or sides like roasted parsnips with mole amarillo. A crumbly slice of Basque cake and a cortado end the meal on a high note.