In a nod to the Little River neighborhood that it calls home, Ogawa translates to "small river." The setting is chicly arranged with warm-toned wood and bold artwork. Chef/co-owner Masayuki Komatsu and his team command a presence with an omakase that stuns with a series of enticing cooked dishes and a procession of focused and skillful nigiri. From hay-smoked Spanish mackerel to nanbanzuke featuring madai that’s been fried and marinated in a bracing vinegar sauce, the opening act is proof that this isn’t your typical sushi counter. Seafood imported from Japan is revealed in delightful pieces like needlefish dabbed with grated ginger, flash-fried ebi and cuttlefish crowned with caviar. Be sure to check out the beverage selection.