Smokin’ D’s is the only place in SF serving milk bread bao stuffed with Texas-style BBQ, so novelty alone is one reason to beeline to this Sunset takeout window. The other, of course, is to try the fantastic smoked meat that occupies the pillowy buns. Peppery brisket tastes like it spent an entire presidential term in a smoker, and the pulled pork with gochujang (stuffed into a bao and dubbed the “Korean Cowboy”) is juicy without being overly sauced. For now in their soft opening phase, the brisket or pulled pork baos are the only things on the menu—but look forward to sandwiches and indoor dining soon.