Velvet curtains, leather booths, framed Mets memorabilia, and the intense need for a martini slap you in the face as you walk into Jr & Son in Williamsburg. It all might feel a little gimmicky, until you learn that most of the decor here has been around since this place opened in the 1930s. Back then, it was an Italian social club called Charlie’s (and starting in 1976, a dive bar named Jr & Son). Now living a third life under the Nura team, the only things that have really changed are the floor (which they ripped up to reveal the original checkered tiles), and the food menu, which leans Italian, but not all the way. Imagine Bernie’s, in the style of Bamonte’s. Just like at Bamonte’s, the food isn’t perfect. The cacio e pepe is sometimes just slightly too peppery, the paccheri fra diavolo too spicy for the lobster it’s made with, and the chicken parm a little too saucy—though still delicious. The rough edges are noticeable, but generally forgivable. But the desserts, which are made by the pastry chef who's also responsible for the killer lineup at nearby Kellogg’s Diner, are inspired. Order at least two, and also that second martini. And then settle deeper into your booth, pretend you are a member of that social club, that the year is 1937, and that you've got some heavy socializing to do.