You no doubt have a friend that will invite you to their “shore house” this summer and after hours of driving, you’ll find yourself in a beachless neighborhood on the west side of the Barnegat Bay in Toms River. The bad news is that your assumed summer beach adventure has led you to a land of strip malls you could have found 15 minutes over the George Washington Bridge. But the good news is that Brooklyn Square Pizza is nearby. This place specializes in square pies, layered with pecorino on top of slightly sweet sauce and mozzarella on a big cloud of dough dusted with sesame seeds. It’s like taking the subway to Bensonhurst, but without having to deal with the N train delays from midtown.