A lot of ink has been spilled about El Quijote, the Patti Smith/Andy Warhol/Bob Dylan hang within the Hotel Chelsea. It’s been around since 1930, and before its latest facelift in 2022, the Spanish restaurant was better known for its sunken leather booths, stained glass paneling, and celebrity hangs than for its picture-perfect paella. But things have changed. These days we’d recommend El Quijote as much for its low-key scene as for some great tapas and yes, even paella. You can still sip (some very good) cocktails next to a sandblasted glass piece depicting the restaurant's windmill-fighting namesake, Don Quijote. Sure, years of clove cigarette residue has been scraped off the murals of Spanish soldiers, but most of the remodeling seems to have happened behind the scenes, and the restaurant's design rivals some of the best art scattered around the hotel proper. The revamped menu of Spanish classics includes simple, fresh small plates, like artichokes bathed in red wine vinegar and salty anchovies, as well as worthy versions of heartier snacks like pan con tomate and patatas bravas. If you’re here with a friend or a date, sit at the bar and share a smattering of tapas. If you’re here with more than three people, though, make the paella de temporada—loaded with prawns, mussels, and clams—the centerpiece of your table. Either way, get the barely-burnt Basque cheesecake for dessert. It’s one of the few versions we’ve tried that we wouldn’t pass over.