Some Thai restaurants have menus so large they deserve a table of contents. Saoha goes in the opposite direction. This family-owned Studio City spot is built around one dish: Northern Thai curried noodles, a.k.a. khao soi. Most of the menu is dedicated to soupy and stir-fried versions, all made with a spice-rich curry paste that's so fragrant it feels like it seeps into your pores, and served with small dishes of toasted chili paste, red onion, and pickled mustard greens for jazzing up your bowl. We prefer Saoha's traditional soupy khao soi for its silky broth laced with coconut milk, but there’s no bad choice here. The harder decision is picking what to get on top of your bowl, like a dramatically torched lobster tail, braised beef that falls apart with a nudge of your spoon, crispy pork belly, or fried chicken cutlets that soak up the curry sauce like a sponge. Saoha started as a vendor at the Wat Thai Food Court, and a meal here still feels like eating at a stall. There are just a handful of tables circling an open counter where you can see bowls assembled and cooks blow-torching proteins like scallops and wagyu to slide on top. The couple who runs the place will come by to check on you and ask if you’ve eaten enough. Even if you’re on the verge of loosening a pants button, finish with the fried bananas. They’re the perfect coda to all that curry.