Just like its sister restaurant Handroll Project, Hamburger Project in NoPa keeps things simple by focusing on just one dish—smashburgers. The buns are soft and pillowy, and patties are thin and juicy with charred crispy skirts—though you’ll have some bites that taste a tad burnt. There are three versions on the menu. The best is the Classic, which is slathered in a creamy house sauce and balanced out by diced onions and pickles. Order the Oklahoma for some added sweetness and spice thanks to Peppadew peppers. But skip the Wisconsin. The whipped butter feels unnecessary and is easy to miss on a burger that already turns wax paper translucent. The $35 half-ounce jar of Tsar Nicoulai caviar you can add on is equally as superfluous. It doesn’t add anything to the beef-eating experience when put up against the house sauce. Hamburger Project may not dethrone the likes of Maillards and Lovely’s, but it’s still a good option when you’re in the area. There are only eight first-come-first-serve seats, so plan to take your burgers to go—Alamo Square is just a couple blocks away.