Inside this Scandi-cool RiNo dining room, find a striking counter where Chef Duncan Holmes oversees a focused team that's hard at work and cool under pressure. Diners choose from several menus, and in all cases, expect a true commitment to the seasons, soigné presentations and tightly honed flavors. Vegetables are often a highlight, as in a porridge of Calrose rice with pickled hedgehog mushroom and crispy yuba. Seared duck breast with parsnip and black truffle is spot on. Desserts are especially captivating, like a memorable chocolate finale with a lacy cocoa nib tuile, pomegranate jam and nutmeg and salsify ice cream. An impressive wine list and thoughtful zero-proof pairing round out this polished experience.