Heard Soho has the kind of zesty green paint job and charming awning that might make you think they’re selling plants, rather than double-patty smashburgers. Even inside, this spot is more prim and proper restaurant than grease-sizzling, smoke-filled burger joint. It’s the sort of place where you could feasibly schmooze a client over a glass of Georgian orange wine and an Ogleshield-draped burger. The burgers themselves are tasty, and even the simplest of the bunch, The Boring Burger, oozes quality with every mouthful of jammy jalapeño and punchily spiced burger sauce. Just know that, thanks to the ribbon of pink running through each patty, we dispute if these are proper, card-carrying smashburgers. But that doesn’t stop them from tasting pretty great. Marble-look tabletops, the optional add-on of caviar, and a sleek little downstairs bar put this firmly in the realm of A Fancy Lunch. While handy for office-workers looking for a Pret upgrade, Heard Soho has the sensible, just-so feel of a school prefect—and that feels at odds with something as fun and casual as a burger.