There are few more joyously colourful and lavishly decorated restaurants than Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire’s 18th-century house of fun. Everything comes with a sense of theatre, from the unfailingly attentive service to Gagnaire’s signature multi-dish cooking. Here, a skilfully roasted langoustine tail in liquorice beurre noisette is not enough, it must be contrasted by an array of complex accompanying dishes crafted with mind-blowing detail. Each element is always exceptionally cooked and the original combinations are brilliantly conceived.