Sit at the beautiful hinoki counter opposite the youthful looking Chef-owner Jackie Lin and you can expect a masterclass in Edomae sushi. He and his team offer two omakase menus: one with snacks and 10 nigiri; the other a more bespoke, personalized offering – with prices to match. Those delicate and quite thrilling dishes may include delicious firefly squid or succulent, creamy monkfish liver; the sashimi, whether Spanish mackerel or squid, is also a highlight and is the time when the sake pairing really comes into its own. The nigiri is a well-judged array of progressively stronger toppings, from silvery kohada to mouth-filling anago. Rice is a blend of two types and retains its natural color, with the acidity judged perfectly to enhance the flavors of the fish.