Zaab E Lee comes with a “we’re not in Kansas anymore” moment. But in this case, Kansas is a mostly abandoned corner in Albany Park, and Oz is a dining room with hut-shaped booths, neon signs on the walls, and fantastic Thai food. This place is prime for catch-up meals with friends, double dates, or keeping your visiting family occupied. On busier days, couples cozied up in the aforementioned booths snack on crispy pork, while chatty locals clink bottles of BYOPacifico underneath a ceiling of colorful parasols and lanterns. But even if it was completely empty, it’s easy to still feel welcome as the owner frequently stops by to check in or refill your jug of pandan water. And once Zaab E Lee’s dishes start showing up, that’s the only company you’ll care about anyway. Sampling a little bit of each section of the menu is the best way to eat here, but there are a few dishes that should be at the top of your wish list. Like pra sam rod—a perfectly fried whole fish blanketed in chili sauce—or citrusy chicken wings with a Grammy-worthy crunch. Our personal Zaab E Lee Best Practices also includes ordering khao soi, tom yum, and very spicy papaya salads, so it helps to have reinforcements. And if you can’t bring a whole squad, order as if you did—you’ll be doing future you a major solid by having leftovers.