It's a low-key spot with a contemporary feel. The bar is central and wraps around an open kitchen, so grab a seat at the counter for the best view. Between the lively tunes and buzzy staff, the aura is anything but stuffy. The plates follow suit—freewheeling, frequently changing and shareable with elements from SE Asia, Latin America and the Levant. Yet, nothing seems out of place, as in sumac-flecked cauliflower with whipped goat's milk feta and falafel-spiced dukkah. Fried cobia collar with nuoc cham boasts a cultish following. Such seductive textures and explosive flavors continue in full force in a dessert of black sesame ice cream with pineapple-cashew jam and Thai tea caramel. The tasting menu, though pricier, is a worthy splurge.