Place Fratesi’s plain pie on a record player and as soon as the needle touches the cheese, you’ll hear it sing, There’s no other pizza in the city like me. And that’s a fact. In the Tri-state area, Fratesi’s would join a long list of restaurants with great bar pies. But they’re the only ones in Miami executing the regional style to crisp perfection. The first thing you’ll notice about a Fratesi’s pie is that it’s cartoonishly thin, like it was pulled directly from a Cartoon Network show. And the cheese is spread to the outer edges, a crust-hater’s paradise of a pizza. As the only one of its kind in the Miami pizzaverse, the Downtown spot is reliably packed with people acting like it’s their first time having pizza. And we get it. Even if you’ve had this sort of pizza before (it’s very similar to Chicago tavern-style), you’ll find Fratesi’s creative riffs and unhinged names exciting. The demon pig boy tastes like the national dish of Dante’s inferno, and the cosmo’s moon places white pies back in the center of critical pizza conversations. So it’s not surprising that reservations are tough. Especially because Fratesi’s was popular before they even opened up their restaurant. They started as a weekly pop-up, slinging pizza discs at Over Under and Tâm Tâm—the origin story of most delicious ideas. Now, this New Jersey-inspired pizza comes with a fittingly New Jersey-inspired pizza shop. If these brick walls, stained glass lamps, and springy booths could talk, they’d insist on calling prosciutto "proshoot" and probably go by Vinny even though their birth certificate says Kyle. The dining room is charmingly rough around the edges, with AC that’s trying its best and windows that overlook a bulldozed Downtown. Eventually, the noise will quiet and the wide-eyed faces making videos about Fratesi’s will move on to the next status pizza. When that day comes, Fratesi’s will be the neighborhood spot you can walk into (unplanned) when you want an outstanding bar pie and an affordable Chianti that chills in a repurposed tomato can. Until then, we’ll happily chase down a table for the most unique pizza in Miami.
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