Mariscos Za Za Zá is a bonus. It's the Andes mint you get with the check. It's the blooper reel during the credits. It's the complimentary tote bag that comes with a New Yorker subscription. Did Loreto, an upscale Mexican seafood spot in Frogtown, need to set up this daytime-only mariscos window in their side alley? No. But we're so happy they did. Come to Loreto between the hours of noon and 3:30pm and it'll look very closed. Sorry, no butterflied fish for you. But if you loop around the building, you'll find Za Za Zá's Baja seafood menu and a patio that perhaps belongs in a Cabo San Lucas resort. Bright ceviche tops tostilocos and micheladas are served colder than the planet Neptune's atmosphere. Picture yourself under a frilly umbrella with both of these items. Even if the seafood sucked, a patio this luxe would be hard to mess up. Fortunately, that isn't the case. Za Za Zá's casual window set-up doesn't translate to cheap, though. The least expensive dish is a cheesy costra taco that costs $9, which, even adjusted for inflation, comes out to: expensive. Save your Za Za Zá trips for blowout lunches consisting of buttery yellowtail sashimi, fried tilapo fish tacos drizzled with cilantro crema, and a coctel that evidences Clamato's healing properties. And since this mariscos window is only open during the day, get here promptly at noon to maximize your time on the patio. You won't want to leave until they kick you out to set up for dinner service.