Lao food is tough to come by in San Francisco. But Chaa Roen Pohn in Parkside serves dishes that scratch the mhok pla itch. Everything under the Lao section of the menu at this Lao-Thai walk-in-only spot is fantastic, whether it’s pla nil tod tilapia that’s so crispy it triggers a noise complaint from three blocks away, or the crackly nam kao tod with sour pork sausage. The Thai options, though, feel like filler songs on an otherwise hit-filled album. The dishes are bland. Pad see ew and tom yum lack any kind of zing. But with Lao food this good, you don’t need to try anything else. So walk in with a few friends, and order everything from just that side of the menu. And don’t despair if the dining room looks full—there’s another one hiding in the back with plenty of seating.