Ánimo is an anomaly. The Midtown Mexican restaurant looks like a chain, but there’s only one—and everything coming out of the kitchen tastes homemade. It’s a polished, efficient, and heavily branded counter-service spot where the tortillas are made-to-order, the salsa verde is fresh and zippy, and all the pan dulce crowding the pastry case is replenished every morning. The best time to visit is in the morning, when you can sit in a sage-green booth and enjoy some custardy pan de elote or huevos rancheros in its purest form (eggs, tortillas, and two puddles of salsa). Lunch is another great option, when straightforward tacos and tortas join the all-day breakfast lineup. You can also pop in for dinner—order the exceptionally marinated skirt steak, and grab a concha to go—but keep in mind, the casual setup feels a little awkward at night.