Look for the orange door at this wine-focused French-ish restaurant near Ladd’s Addition and head upstairs to the dining room that’s a little homey, a little funky, and thoroughly Portland in its lack of pretension. You’ll find couples sharing seafood-stuffed crepes and pan-roasted sturgeon and regulars who stop in for a glass of biodynamic wine and a look at the frequently changing menu. Mainstays are the chicken liver mousse tartlet that often sells out before prime time and the tête de moine cheese shaved with a special implement and formed into a rosette, served with honeyed hazelnuts and sprinkled with fennel pollen that’s equally good as a starter or dessert. There are some surprising molecular gastronomy touches (see: sauces dehydrated and formed into cracker-like shards) and a Harry Potter-themed bathroom complete with owl wallpaper, that no one seems to talk about, which just adds to the vibe.