Cover bands usually feel like cruise ship filler, but every once in a while, one pulls a Michael Bublé and turns nostalgia into a headline act. In many ways, VanHorn’s is a tribute to the New York steakhouse—a Peter Luger clone, at times. But with near-flawless execution and a few smart Texas touches, it’s one of the most exciting places to eat beef in Austin. This Downtown steakhouse could have been plucked off of a busy Manhattan avenue in the era of white-jacketed servers and stiff martinis—the buzzy, wood-paneled dining room seems like it’s been operating for decades. It houses a few leather booths, a handful of standalone tables, and a long wooden bar where cocktail shakers keep time while third-date confessions and business-dinner jargon float through the room like competing podcasts. The menu hits all the steakhouse standards, with just enough novelty to keep things interesting. Sliced onion-and-tomato salad starters and the housemade schlag served with dessert are a little too Peter Luger to be accidental. The key is that VanHorn’s doesn’t merely mimic the classics. It often improves on them. And unless you live in New York or own a private jet for a casual Tuesday steak run, does it really matter who did it first? The robust raw bar, silky whipped ricotta with sourdough, and lamb shank shepherd’s pie are all different (and delicious) enough to merit their own cult followings. But the star is the dry-aged porterhouse that fulfills its role with grizzled perfection. It arrives with a thick, crackling crust and a ruby-red center, set on a sizzling plate slicked with butter in case you’d like to continue cooking your pieces in a choose-your-own-doneness situation. The beef is crunchy at the edges, tender in the middle, buttery, and exactly what a great shared steak should be. VanHorn’s comes from the team behind Bill’s Oyster and Teddy’s. So far, this is their magnum opus. Because it pulls heavily from the greats, the restaurant suggests a cover can truly become its own. Ask most people who sings “I Will Always Love You” and they'll say Whitney, not Dolly. The loudest version tends to win. And right now, VanHorn’s is pretty loud.