Too often, the most memorable parts of a pupusa are the gooey beans and the cheese burning the roof of your mouth. Not at Los Cheros. This strip mall pupusería in Gardena makes plump masa cakes with dark grill marks. Even after a hot sear, these remain soft and doughy when you pinch off a piece with your fingertips. And if you’re a dairy freak, you’ll appreciate the copious amount of salty cheese. We like to balance it out with spinach or stewed squash.