Puglia, in Italy’s southeast, is considered the new Tuscany. And the region has plenty to recommend it: gorgeous beaches, balmy weather, the intangible thrill of going against the grain, and some remarkable hotels — like the Masseria Torre Coccaro, less than an hour’s drive from both Bari and Brindisi. The setting is classic Puglia, on a sun-bleached hillside facing the Adriatic Sea, amid groves of olive trees. The view is no accident — the Masseria began its life in the 16th century as a watchtower, a fortified farmhouse, designed as a stronghold against marauding Turks. Today the fortifications are strictly ornamental, and the Masseria’s architecture just adds to the charm. Some rooms, in the old farmhouse, are fairly typical, while others are located in the towers, or under the arched ceilings of barrel vaults, and two are carved from limestone caves, one opening onto an orange grove and a private pool. There’s a restaurant in the old stable house, and another at the beach club, as well as a golf course, an Aveda spa, and a cooking school — because exporting the local cuisine is Puglia’s next step toward global travel dominance. How to get there: From Bari, take the S.S. 16 motorway towards Brindisi; from Brindisi, head towards Bari. Exit at Fasano/Savelletri and follow the signs towards Savelletri.
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