The 40-minute journey from Cattleman’s from El Paso feels like traversing the surface of the moon, particularly around twilight when the dry, mountainous landscape takes on a purple hue. There’s a giant lake surrounded by decorative teepees to welcome you to the grounds, and a petting zoo out front. Inside, you’ll find oversized statues and museum-like dioramas filling the maze-like collection of dining rooms. But there are also steaks, which aren’t as polished as newer spots, but seasoned well and balanced by fork-tender beef rib appetizers and massive lobster tails you can tack on to your equally massive porterhouse order. When people outside Texas picture a “Texas steakhouse,” they’re probably picturing Cattleman’s.