RVR can seem a little mysterious. You might walk past its angular concrete facade on Abbot Kinney and wonder: Is this another luxury eyewear store? What do they have against vowels? And why is it always packed so late on school nights? All these burning questions will be answered once you book a table, though, because RVR’s appeal isn’t mysterious at all. It’s a California-filtered izakaya with delicious food, great drinks, an energized crowd, and everything else you’d want from a night out in Venice (except for more elbow room, perhaps). A reboot of the dearly departed MTN, RVR is a comeback of sorts for the former Gjelina chef, a.k.a the person who changed our personal relationship with kale. As with Gjelina, assertively grilled, super-seasonal vegetables and gorgeously dressed salads are where this place shines brightest. Charred maitakes get brushed with salty miso butter, pickled burdock roots come wrapped in fragrant shisho leaves, and even a standard-seeming dish like little gem salad is revamped with smoked shoyu creme fraîche. RVR handles izakaya classics well, too—the karaage glazed in hot honey is exactly what we want with an ume highball, and the pan-fried pork dumplings hold their own against any gyoza spot in the South Bay. During daytime service, the menu follows the same produce-centric model but with a few brunchy additions, like squid fried rice tossed with a chopped omelet and Japanese pour-overs that go hand-in-hand with warm mochi beignets. Despite its hazy blend of cultures, RVR is 100% a Venice restaurant. Beanie-clad dads pull up to dinner on electric motorcycles, agency folks are on dates with graphic designers, and no one hears the lo-fi vinyl playlist over conversations about surf camp in Nicaragua. For now, this means that unless you’re cool with eating after 9pm (or opting for a slower-paced brunch), you’ll need to plan for a reservation, and even then, there’s a chance you’ll be seated along the narrow counter with zero back support. You can also request a table up on the semi-hidden rooftop, which offers more room, but also sacrifices some of the social buzz found in the main dining room. RVR isn't always the comfiest dining experience, and showing up at primetime often means navigating a specific brand of restaurant chaos, but it's clear why Abbot Kinney hasn’t seen energy like this since the Birkenstock store's year-end sale. RVR is a great izakaya, sure, but it’s a sexy Westside dinner destination, too.