Bar Sugo is a gem of a pizzeria and old-school red-sauce joint, the kind that feels endangered in Toronto these days. If you can stomach the waitlist—which can stretch well into the two-hour range—you'll be rewarded with heaping plates of meaty, mouth-coating bolognese and crisp-tender thin crust pies. Order everything to share, including perfectly bouncy parm (veal or eggplant) and some thick-cut garlic toast that, trust is, is worth getting even if you're also getting pizza. Our pick of the bunch is the sausage-jalapeño Vesuvio pie, which hits hard with lingering heat, briny salinity from olives, and a hint of smoke from scamorza.