The original Moana Surfrider opened in 1901, which means it predated by half a century or more the highly developed Waikiki Beach that’s familiar to modern visitors. This was long before cheap jet travel, long before Hawaii became the 50th state, and long before tropical island holidays became commonplace. But even now, although it’s no longer the novelty it once was, there’s nothing commonplace about the “First Lady of Waikiki.” Today the original structure, now known as the Banyan Wing, is flanked by a pair of newer buildings, and while the Banyan is the more architecturally distinguished section of the hotel, the newer rooms are larger, without sacrificing much in the way of character. The look, throughout, is dignified and somewhat conservative, avoiding excesses in both directions — it’s too elegant to lapse into island kitsch and too composed to reach for attempts at boutique-hotel cool. And you don’t get to be a grand dame without some impressive public spaces. The Moana Lani spa is extravagant, the fitness center is well-equipped and well-staffed, the pool deck is a waterfront classic, and just beyond it is Waikiki Beach, which is no slouch either in the leisure department. A handful of restaurants and bars serves everything from fresh seafood to afternoon tea, ensuring that you need never leave the grounds — from here it’s still the Waikiki of a century ago.