On the edge of Chinatown, Chef Fidel Caballero is not holding anything back. Whether you sit at the kitchen counter for the ambitious tasting menu or order à la carte in the boisterous dining room, the cooking is a singularly original and bold celebration of Mexican cuisine. If anything, there must be an order of sourdough tortillas somewhere on the table. Made with Sonoran wheat and chicken fat, these delicate, perfectly griddled discs served with recado negro butter will lock in a return visit. Better yet, this won’t be the only course worth returning for. The likes of lobster nicuatole, black cod with salsa Veracruzana, and sweetbreads with bitter almond foam make for lasting impressions. From the bar, find Mexican spirits and natural wines.