Odo has immaculate dinner party vibes. The restaurant glows a little from the street, there’s a happy buzz in the small dining room, and the staff welcomes you like an old friend who stopped by and happened to be hungry. The kitchen takes the food seriously—start with the scarpetta before moving on to the crowd-favorite gnocchi—but the Abruzzese-focused Italian menu has a playful sense of humor that begs you to try your best Sopranos accent: the traditional name for its lamb skewers is shortened to speducc, and the side dishes are grouped under the heading “goomahs.” If you’re coming for Sunday dinner, expect a totally different experience: a family-style, rotating prix-fixe menu that’ll likely lean toward red-sauce classics, plus wine.