Onesan strays from the precious, counter-only format. It’s a full-on restaurant with a big menu that, like the name says, includes sushi and dim sum. You could easily fill up on pillowy soft short rib bao and sticky, glazed char siu ribs and call it a (successful) day. But then you’d miss out on the yellowtail sashimi brightened up with serrano and yuzu soy, and traditionally prepped nigiri like marbled salmon and plump scallops. If you’re still hungry, add a simple spicy tuna roll or a specialty roll that packs multiple fish, creamy avocado, and crispy tempura flakes into each bite.