The eponymous chef-owner is an alumnus of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, so you can expect a cooking style underpinned by a strong, classical base and a kitchen wholly familiar with seasonal, luxury ingredients. There are few things more appealing than spying a section of a menu called “On toast”; try the fritto misto or the blue crab. The choice of raw dishes includes more than just oysters and there’s a mix of small and large plates that you can share, should you be so inclined. Creamy scallops are paired with nutty morels, while spiced lamb chops are turbocharged with eggplant chutney. This longstanding restaurant occupies an attractive brownstone and is spread over two floors but still feels quite intimate; it’s run smoothly and efficiently and there’s a small counter in front of the kitchen if you want to watch the action. If you’re looking for a restaurant aimed at grown-ups, this is it.