Its classic art nouveau styling makes this popular French brasserie de luxe infinitely more 7th arrondissement than Upper East Side. The efficient service is overseen by managers who gracefully tend to a sophisticated crowd. All the favorites are here, from chicken liver mousse and artichaut vinaigrette to profiteroles, and the kitchen prepares them with a healthy respect for tradition. There are also plenty of salads for those who’ve given up wondering how French women can eat this kind of food without ever going to the gym.