After rallying crowds on both coasts of the country, pizza maestro Anthony Mangieri is in full command of this airy, black-and white-tiled hall lined with canned tomatoes and eager diners. He is serious about his craft and is the only one tending to the wood-burning oven, which yields glorious Neapolitan-style pies with fluffy edges, papery crusts and minimal toppings that hardly go beyond bubbly gumdrops of mozzarella di bufala and sweet tomato sauce. Indeed, this is a team that cannot be bothered with anything else besides pizza. There is a short list of starters, and dessert is limited to sorbet or gelato. Reservations are tough to score, so walk-ins should aim to arrive early.