The city is now full of artisanal pizza, the kind produced with house-milled flour and the finest prosciutto. And, hey, that’s great. But if you just want a square slice overflowing with vodka sauce, or a round pie topped with chicken parm, Joe & John’s is there for you. Technically, this Ridgewood spot has been around since the 1960s, although new owners took over in the 21st century, and they moved to a new location right next to the original. In the long, bright parlor, the phone rings off the hook, and the crunchy sicilian hits the spot every time. Browse your options in the glass case, and choose the slice that speaks to you. Maybe it’s the one piled with sausage and broccoli rabe. Or maybe it’s not a slice at all. The chicken cutlet sandwich on an oversized garlic knot is just about perfect.