César Ramirez is one of the few chefs who, night after night, has the difficult task of meeting his own standards of high-wire precision. His downtown restaurant brings a sleek, minimal look to a century-old address, and as might be expected, world-class seafood shipped from all over plays a large role in his tasting menu. Recent highlights include slices of raw Danish hiramasa with fennel and miso, seared North Sea turbot with Peruvian white asparagus and velvety California quail with orange reduction. A masterful hand with sauces and a sense for harmonious combinations demonstrate a refined sensibility. An eager service team oversees the spacious room where counter and table seating alike offer a prime vantage point for watching this kinetic kitchen.