One of the first things you’ll hear upon entering Restaurante San Vicente in Excelsior is slapping. No, it’s not a round of applause because you’ve arrived—just masa getting relentlessly worked over like the staff has a corn vendetta. The pupusas seem to always be in production to keep up with demand, and for good reason. They’re crisp, hand-sized, and filled to the point of compromising their structural integrity. Our go-tos are the loroco that’s almost more cheese than corn, and the pollo con frijoles stuffed with a thick layer of shredded chicken. They can be a bit greasy, but a big jar of tart curtido and a squeeze bottle of mild hot sauce are there to cut through it all. Stop by for a quick under-$5 snack and tune out to one of the two TVs.