Try getting a reservation at Keens tonight. It’s probably impossible. But if you try walking into DeStefano’s Steakhouse in Williamsburg with eight people, that should work out just fine. DeStefano’s fills a very particular hole: It is both one of the most useful steakhouses to know about, and one of the most useful restaurants in Williamsburg. Even though you could walk in with those eight people tonight no problem, you should eat (or just drink) at the bar at least once. The bartender Michelle is there every night, knows all of her regulars’ orders by heart, and makes the filthiest martinis on Lorimer Street. DeStefano’s doesn’t serve the best steak in the city—sometimes the porterhouse for two could be slightly more tender, and the mashed potatoes taste lightly boxed—but the vibes are immaculate.