Tower Hill—the void between the City and the Tower of London—is somewhere we never want to be. But this restaurant serving dishes from the Shaanxi province in northwestern China justifies weaving between confused tourists at one of the city’s most annoying junctions. The standard of excellence at Dream Xi’an is just as high as it is at the restaurant’s sister locations Xi’an Impression and Master Wei, and there’s room in the comfortable, red-accented space for everyone. City workers clock off with a cold Tsingtao, crews conduct three-hour catch-ups over wonderfully chewy, must-order beef tripe skewers, and solo diners settle in with a book as servers refresh teapots. You won’t totally shake off anorak-clad sightseers, as many wander in. But what they don’t know is that Dream Xi’an’s noodles are the real crown jewels to seek out in this part of town. Each makes a satisfying bowl for one person, but really you want to attack this menu en masse so you can try them all.