For a neighborhood that's home to many C-suite types and people with five-digit credit limits, Brentwood is surprisingly low on steakhouses. There’s Baltaire with its viral brunch and $240 porterhouses, and Matū Kai where Westside divorcees find love again over grass-fed wagyu. And then there’s The Wilkes, a retro-looking spot with really good creamed spinach and bone-chilling vespers. It’s the kind of middle-of-the-road steakhouse that works for everyday life, like celebrating dad’s birthday or getting a little drunk with friends on a Tuesday night. The Wilkes has three distinct spaces under one roof, and where you sit will shape your evening. There’s the bar, where you might rub elbows with someone watching baseball and drinking their third Lagunitas. There’s a fireside den that’s nice for intimate dinners. And then there’s our favorite, the main room, where vested servers whip out crumb scrapers to dust off tablecloths, and neighbors hug each other with wine glasses sloshing in hand. While there's a general Fancy Steakhouse atmosphere, little details make it skew more casual, like clashing sounds of jazz and ESPN, and miniature Scottie dog statues wherever you look (it’s an impressive, albeit random collection). If your main priority is a nice cut of grilled beef, we prefer the steaks over at Matu Kai, but The Wilkes stands out more for its non-steak entrees—get the latke-crusted schnitzel—and interesting vegetable sides. Prioritize those, and you'll appreciate what The Wilkes really is: an all-purpose clubhouse for Brentwoodians with perfectly fine food and an energy that fits the neighborhood like a tailored blazer.