If you’ve ever looked at a succinct menu and thought, “I wish I had 200 more options,” head to Sangam Chettinad. The North Austin strip-mall restaurant offers a long inventory of greatest hits—dosa, biryani, curries, and tandoor specials—plus the occasional regional special that reminds you how varied Indian cuisine really is. Luckily, the staff knows it front to back, and they’ll gladly tell you to “skip the butter chicken, because you can get that anywhere in Austin.” Instead, they’ll steer you toward tender mutton chops swimming in a gravy rich with clove and cardamom, or chili paneer that’s every bit as satisfying as any fried cheese we’ve had. It’s the rare restaurant where a menu this sprawling delivers consistently excellent renditions of the classics, and it’s part of what makes Sangam the city’s best all-around Indian spot. The dining room is large and nearly always busy. Servers hustle out sizzling platters of meat seconds after they leave the tandoor, while families of six wait patiently for tables to turn over. Around dinnertime, the phone seems to ring in perpetuity with takeout orders, and a small arsenal of robots wheels Styrofoam containers to the front desk to keep the to-go operation moving. The flavors are bold, the portions are generous, and every dish tastes like it was designed to wake you from a coma. This is unpretentious dining at its best. The next time your friends complain that Austin doesn’t have enough good Indian food, point them in the general direction of Parmer and McNeil and let the alluring smells drifting out of the kitchen lead the rest of the way.