Sorry if this sounds like the tired spiel you get at every restaurant on Planet Earth, but Yasuko’s does Seattle-style teriyaki a little differently. That’s precisely why it works. Their thighs have the personality of Thanksgiving turkey, with intense savory notes and a rotisserie-like caramelization on the edges. Salad here comes in the form of vinegar-soaked cabbage that provides ample cooling. And the spicy chicken forgoes sticky sauce in favor of a hot lemongrass-y rub. “See you tomorrow!” the staff might exclaim while handing off takeout in their community promotional poster-covered space. A presumptuous thing to say, until you take a few bites and understand.
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